Skiing in Les Carroz: The French Alps’ Best-Kept Secret
Skiing in Les Carroz is perhaps the ultimate hidden gem of winter Alpine getaways. Les Carroz d’Arâches (just 'Les Carroz' to those in the know - the ‘z’ is silent and it's pronounced 'Kah-roh') is the perfect understated ski resort offering luxury away from the crowds in the heart of the French Alps. This charming, traditional village is part of the vast Grand Massif ski domain, and has world-class skiing, fantastic dining and hotel options, and an authentic atmosphere without the showiness of some of the more famous ski resorts.
LesCarroz_050122_@Bouilleurdephoto
What Makes Skiing in Les Carroz Special?
Exclusive but not flashy - Avoid the flashiness and crowds in the more famous resorts while still enjoying great skiing and access to luxury accommodation.
Part of the Grand Massif - Direct access to 265km of pistes from the village which links into the snow-sure slopes at Flaine.
Perfect skiing for all abilities - There are easy, beginner-friendly slopes near the village as well as plenty of challenging runs and long pistes for experienced skiers.
Family-friendly - A fabulous resort for families with kids of all ages with ski schools, free beginner pistes in the village (snow depending), plenty of easy, wide runs, and a great après-ski scene.
Well-managed infrastructure - Lifts are quick and plentiful, pistes are beautifully maintained, and the Grand Massif app is a great, up-to-date resource.
Charming Alpine ambiance - Retains an authentic village feel with boutique chalets, cozy wine bars, and top-tier dining.
Easy access from Geneva - Les Carroz is just over an hour from Geneva airport, making it one of the most convenient ski destinations in the Alps.
Les Carroz: A Hidden Gem in the Grand Massif
Les Carroz isn't as well-known as some of France's most famous resorts, but that only enhances its charm. Just a half-hour drive away, Megève caters to a completely different crowd, drawing visitors more for its social scene than the slopes. Avoriaz, Val Thorens and Courchevel are famous, party-hard resorts, popular with bright young things who ski fast, drink faster, dance on tables and never seem to get hungover - not that we're jealous.
Les Carroz is a solid ski destination that bridges the gap between budget-friendly party resorts and designer-drip luxury destinations. It's got plenty of high-end accommodation, great restaurants and après-ski options, but it retains its relaxed mountain charm - people are here to have fun with friends and family, not see and be seen. This hidden gem in the Alps attracts visitors for the sunshine (one hopes), skiing, and fresh mountain air, but it remains refreshingly unpretentious if you're new to skiing, making it an excellent choice for beginners of all ages.
Les Carroz is a fantastic family-friendly resort, especially perfect for small children learning to ski while still offering enough hustle and bustle to keep everyone entertained once it's time to leave the slopes. It also caters well to families and groups with a mix of both experienced skiers and beginners which can be tricky to manage - keeping advanced skiers entertained without overwhelming beginners. The group experts can explore the numerous challenging runs across the Grand Massif, while beginners benefit from wide, gentle slopes that are easy to learn on and which are conveniently close to the village.
© Shutterstock
Skiing in Les Carroz is also exceptionally well-organized in terms of infrastructure: the apps are up-to-date, useful and actually function, providing up-to-the-minute maps, pass purchases, and relevant resort news. Parking and lift access are also efficiently managed. While the village télécabine can get busy during peak times and holidays, the lifts move people up the mountain swiftly and with so many pistes to explore, people tend to spread out over the day, leaving the area around the village relatively quiet until home time. Other parts of the Grand Massif - Flaine especially - can have lengthy queues on lifts at peak times, but Les Carroz lifts tend to handle the crowds well.
At 1,140 metres, Les Carroz isn't super high, but through the ski lift network, it has access to 265km of pristine (and higher) pistes, and the village links into ski areas in Samoëns, Morillon, and Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval which are part of the Grand Massif. Les Carroz - and the Grand Massif's - pièce de résistance, though - is its access to Flaine. Flaine is one of the most snow-sure areas in France and it's a lovely trip on skis direct from the village in the télécabine to Kédeuze and down pistes and short chairlifts to the Flaine ski area.
Les Carroz also offers a fantastic 'mini' ski pass for beginners for a reduced price which is great if you have little kids who don't want to ski all day or if you are a beginner and don't want to pay for access to the whole ski area. You can go up twice in the télécabine from the village and have unlimited use of the Crêtes draglift and carpet, Plein Soleil draglift and chairlift for €28 which is an absolute bargain. Under-eights ski free in the whole resort, as long as you provide proof of age.
Where to Stay in Les Carroz: Chic Chalets and Boutique Luxury
While Les Carroz retains the charm of an authentic alpine village, there's something for everyone when it comes to accommodation.
Les Servages d'Armelle
© Hemis / Alamy Stock Photo / Patrice Hauser
© Hemis / Alamy Stock Photo / Patrice Hauser
Les Servages d'Armelle stands out as a top choice, offering ski-in, ski-out access while remaining peacefully tucked away from the village's bustle. There's a bus stop right outside the hotel which goes to the centre of Les Carroz with bars and restaurants is 10 minutes' walk away (it's 15 minutes' walk back, as it's up hill). It's a great place to enjoy peace and quiet but enjoy good proximity to town. The walk up and down will help you build up an appetite for dinner - the Michelin-recommended restaurant serves amazing food.
The ski-out option at Les Servages d'Armelle is easy even for beginner skiers and children - a gentle piste leads down to the main Kédeuze télécabine through the chalets from the hotel (as long as there's snow), making it brilliantly practical. Beware, though, that the ski-in option at the end of the day requires going down a red piste to get back, which might be tricky for absolute beginners and very small children who are learning to ski. That said, it's a really wide red piste and lots of children and relatively new skiiers are able to come down it easily, so it'll depend on individual ability. If it's not possible, it shouldn't put you off the hotel, you'll just need to come down one of the many blue trails to the Kédeuze télécabine and hop up to the hotel in the ski bus, which is very doable. Lots of children sledge outside the hotel on the bottom of the famous Timalets piste when all the skiers have gone home, which is great fun. Parents can relax on the Milk Hotel terrace with a spritz, soaking up the final rays of sun. The Timalets run is one of the most famous in Les Carroz, and is where the ski teachers do some of their bigger events and shows with flaming torches, so great viewing for families and children.
If you fancy going self-catered, some rental properties (apartments, rather than chalets) are available at Le Grand Cerf and Les Airelles, which are recent builds and are ski in, ski out (snow and availability depending - they book out fast). Le Grand Duc is another luxury rental option close to the centre of town (a short walk to the slopes). Les Chalets de Léana is a 5-star rental complex in the centre of town, close to all the best après-ski spots and comes complete with pool, sauna and hammam.
For larger groups, the luxurious Chalet Artipan is an option (the whole chalet is split into two large apartments sleeping between 8 and 19, depending on how many you are), but it's slightly out of town, so you'll need a car.
Après-Ski and Eating: Refined Indulgence
Half the fun of a winter holiday is après-ski, and Les Carroz doesn't disappoint. When it comes to hitting the town (or the tiles) after a day on the slopes, there are plenty of options. Les Carroz manages to strike a rare balance in a ski resort, it's lively without feeling like a party hub, yet not so quiet that it feels empty or - whisper it - boring at night. The mix of visitors is perfect with people from all walks of life coming to ski and enjoy the snow, making town feel eclectic and vibrant rather than overly tailored to a specific 'it' crowd or age group. Above all, it's incredibly family-friendly, catering to both young children and teenagers alike.
Le Bar à Tin is a charming wine and craft beer bar in the centre of town. It gets busy between the end of the ski day and dinner time, but even when it's full it feels lively and animated rather than crushing. The drink selection is excellent and there's hot apple juice available for the kids in their outside seating area, as well as mulled wine (which obviously isn't for the children).
Les Servages d'Armelle is perhaps the best restaurant in town, serving great traditional French cuisine with fish, fondue and raclette taking centre stage for mains. There are snails and foie gras to start, salad, burrata or salmon if you want to go light. Surprisingly, for somewhere to typically French, the restaurant also pays homage to British tastes with amazing steak from the UK. The accompanying Hollandaise sauce is definitely an ode to France though - it's delicious and pure butter. (Don't think about it, but silently commit to skiing it off in the morning). To blend in with the chic Parisians and Marseillais, be sure to order no more than medium rare.
If you're eating in rental accommodation, Le Bœuf Carroz’te! is a great option if you don't fancy cooking. Pick up one of their rotisserie chickens with potatoes a quick and easy meal, or order one of their pre-prepared platters of charcuterie and cheese for a raclette or fondue meal (apartments usually come with the equipment you'll need). They also do meat platters for pierrades. Wine - French, naturally - is also available if you want a one-stop-shop for an easy but typically French lunch or dinner.
Le Marlow and Le Grizzly (yes, like the bear) are perfect spots for a pre-dinner beer (or an apéritif, if you’re feeling French) and a well-earned toast to your skiing achievements. They'll be full at weekends and in busy holiday periods, but early in the evening, the mood is lively and fun rather than rowdy, making it a good spot to take the kids, who will likely beg for crêpes even though it's before dinner.
Getting There: Effortless Access
Not all ski resorts are created equal when it comes to getting transport and ease of access, but Les Carroz delivers. If you're driving, accommodation sometimes has parking, but check first as its not a universal rule. There are also chargers for electric vehicles in the village that actually work (France's network can be, on occasion, spotty), but they are popular, so securing a spot can be challenging. As you leave the motorway, there are fast chargers at the SuperU in Magland which can be a better bet.
Les Carroz is just over an hour’s drive from Geneva Airport making it one of the easiest and fastest resorts to get to. Taxi transfers and group transfers in minibuses are very easy to arrange, as are private chauffeurs, but book in advance for a seamless exit from the airport.
Why Les Carroz?
For travellers seeking an authentic yet exclusive ski retreat, Les Carroz strikes a perfect balance—luxurious accommodations, vibrant après-ski, and world-class slopes. This is where those in the know slip away from the crowds and the fashionistas and enjoy an elegant Alpine experience.